My wife and I are just back
from a week and some in the Netherlands, which we spent mostly in Amsterdam, with
time out for a couple of glorious days bicycling on the island of Texel.
Bicycles are everywhere in that country, which partly
explains, no doubt, why any unfit person one meets there is probably a tourist,
and why, for a big city, Amsterdam is so stunningly quiet. As we pedaled from
place to place within the metropolis, I couldn’t help thinking how much more
livable our own big towns would be –not to mention how much “greener”– if they
were equally bike-friendly. And it frankly depressed me to imagine the shouting
down of such an idea, were it proposed in most of those towns.
Bicycles for commuting? How
Third World.
Of course the Netherlands
is anything but that. We Americans are so schooled in the We’re-Number-One
mentality that many of us instinctively impute inferiority to all places that
happen to lie outside our borders. Yes, the Dutch do pay a lot of taxes, a word
that not even liberal politicians dare speak in our current, constrictive moment.
At the same time, their poverty rate is a mere fraction of ours; the gap
between upper and lower financial strata is an immensely thinner one; there is
little evidence of homelessness in the Dutch streets; a comprehensive health
care system ensures that catastrophic illness will not bankrupt a family, as it
can so easily do here; and their infrastructure makes ours, crumbling under our very noses, appear the Third World
example. But.
But the inclination of
self-styled sophisticates in the anti-We’re-Number-One
direction is often just as misguided. A monumental blessing of having been a
writer and/or academic for four decades is that I’ve enjoyed very extensive
travel experience– from which I have concluded that to grow instantly
infatuated with this or the other “foreign” society is facile and wrong-headed.
It’s a silly mistake to imagine altering all we stand for in order to ape that
society’s virtues. (Not that reasonable people shouldn’t, for example, be
appalled by the U.S. rate of infant mortality, on a level with Jordan’s.)
One can draw no useful
conclusions on the basis of a vacation, or even a few years of residency.
Indeed, I’m sure it takes a lifetime to understand the nuances, grim and bright,
of any culture, and to think otherwise is to engage in cartoon sociology. Our
own Dutch stay was briefer than brief, but with each passing day, this
conviction recurred to me with increasing force. At 70, even if I wished to, I
wouldn’t have enough time left on earth to get a true sense of what we
(wrongly) call Holland. For starters, I’d have to learn the language at least
as well as most Dutch know English.
One morning, I got out of
bed earlier than my wife, wanting some time to polish a lecture I’d soon
deliver in Brattleboro. For whatever reason, though, I found my mind wandering
off task.
Here I was, shaping up a
talk I’d been asked to give on the premise that the state poet must “know a lot
about poetry.” Well, yes, I suppose I do know
a lot about poetry. Some of it.
How much, I mused, do I
know about Dutch poetry? Precious
little. In fact, the only Netherlands poet I know personally (and this mostly
by way of correspondence) is Hans van de Waarsenburg, whom I met at an
international conference in Slovenia a decade or so ago. His English is every
bit as good as my own, so I am inclined –far more than is usual for me– to
trust the poet’s translator, Hans himself having overseen the rendition of a poem
I cite below.
This is a poem that
captures my attention not only for its salty humor, its incisive perception,
and its economy, but also, the writer being just my age, for its dead-on evocation
of rock ‘n’ roll’s explosion onto the scene in the 50s, and of the fabulously
outraged responses of our elders...which anticipated our own responses to the
music our own kids seem to favor. In short, amid the nostalgia and the wit,
there’s a faint smirk at hypocrisy in every human quarter.
Early that morning in an
Amsterdam hotel, as I remembered “Bill Haley in Maastricht,” I wondered: if
there’s work of this quality in one Dutch poet, what might be the general case
for that country’s poetry? I am not equipped to say, will never be.
I refer to poetry here
simply because it’s what I have known for a great portion of my life; but I
hope, with rightful humility, that my thoughts may extend to other modes of
human behavior. We may or may not be artists, but we all must be citizens. As
such, should we not bear in mind that whatever we think we “know a lot about” excludes
the experiences of countless, unnameable others?
Bill
Haley in Maastricht
What had not assailed the ears!
The dulcet tones of Mantovani, Helmut Zacharias
Sugary syrup of the lowest seaside sort. Incestuous
Family gathering. Hurrah for raised skirts
The
grasping, groping hands. The uncles
Heated, randy with lager and provocative drops
Of gin. Catholic orgy, suddenly smothered
By Bill Haley and his whirling Comets.
Heated, randy with lager and provocative drops
Of gin. Catholic orgy, suddenly smothered
By Bill Haley and his whirling Comets.
Their
sound burst into the room like
Exploding shells. As if the devil himself had
Appeared. As if the end of time had come
And the curtains were torn to shreds.
Exploding shells. As if the devil himself had
Appeared. As if the end of time had come
And the curtains were torn to shreds.
Never
were heads shaken so firmly and was
Spittle blown to all points of the compass.
One of those days, filled with dire curses,
Sleepless nights and snoring daydreams.
Spittle blown to all points of the compass.
One of those days, filled with dire curses,
Sleepless nights and snoring daydreams.
***
Time
languishes in vinyl, like sad banknotes.
Yes, the spit curl stuck to his forehead. Yes,
Blue jeans blew their top. Fat-bellied
Rock 'n' Roll, with Moluccans swinging and
Yes, the spit curl stuck to his forehead. Yes,
Blue jeans blew their top. Fat-bellied
Rock 'n' Roll, with Moluccans swinging and
The
bass player bestriding his instrument.
Pints were downed, disappearing in the
Hollows of everyone's past. Bill Haley
In Maastricht. Late Sunday service, brylcream
Pints were downed, disappearing in the
Hollows of everyone's past. Bill Haley
In Maastricht. Late Sunday service, brylcream
On
old heads. Their fathers, already dead,
Had to be reburied. Steam rising
Once again. I turned my back on those fragile
Days: SHAKE RATTLE 'N' ROLL.
Had to be reburied. Steam rising
Once again. I turned my back on those fragile
Days: SHAKE RATTLE 'N' ROLL.